Walking the West Highland Way, Part Two - Rowardennan to Inveroran

Having stayed two nights in Rowardennan for the pleasure of climbing Ben Lomond, walkers that had started on the same day as us had raced ahead and we wouldn’t see them again. On day three we were to meet those we’d encounter most days until we reached Fort William. The trail seemed busier than the first two days, suggesting that most start their walk on a Monday. I say it was busier, but we still felt we were on our own for the majority of the journey.

Day three, Rowardennan to Inverarnan, is widely considered to be the toughest day. I’d done as much research as I could to understand what challenges lay ahead. The main message was that there would be a lot of rocks to clamber over and tree roots to navigate. I had been concerned that all fourteen miles would be a slog but some last minute intel suggested the worst of it covered only about three miles, which gave me some hope.

An honesty box heading out of Rowardennan

The start of the day was fairly gentle. An honesty box not far out of Rowardennan offered the chance to stock up on snacks and blister plasters. The path was fairly wide and flat, the loch on one side, intermittent gentle waterfalls on the other. Knowing that the afternoon was set to be a challenge we opted for the high route, hoping to make the journey to Inversnaid as painless as possible. We didn’t regret it. Rather than descend to a narrow, rocky path, we were treated to a continuation of the wide smooth path we’d been enjoying for most of the morning. We were surrounded by pine trees and moss covered undergrowth, the occasional view across the loch visible. 

Views on the high route

When the two routes converged the path began to get narrower, an abundance of ferns lining the route. We dropped down to the level of the water with some small beaches to enjoy the full view across the loch. As we approached Inversnaid the path became rockier and there was one final steep ascent to take us to the bridge to cross the waterfall and down to Inversnaid Hotel, the only place on the route to buy food until Inverarnan. Walkers happy to add a bit more incline can go in search of the bunkhouse which I believe also serves food.

Reviews of the hotel did not always sing the praises of how welcome walkers are, but we found our reception perfectly friendly. They have a dedicated room to leave your rucksack and boots, and a room where you’re welcome to eat a packed lunch if you have one. The bar itself only serves food until one o’clock so it’s worth ensuring you arrive in good time. I would highly recommend the scones.

A rocky section of the walk

After a pleasant lunch overlooking the loch we set off to see what this infamous section of the Way had to offer. There’s no denying it is slow going, and I was grateful to have a walking partner to pull me up some of the trickier sections, but overall it wasn’t as bad as I was expecting. There are sections of relatively smooth path between the rockier sections but there is a lot of up and down and you have to watch where you’re putting your feet so much that there’s not much opportunity to look up and appreciate where you are. 

An overgrown section of the path

After a few hours we emerged from the trees on to a beach which felt like the end of the loch (it was not). It was a nice spot to sit and enjoy the views. The path from there is more open for a while, although overgrown in places. You’ll still experience more rocks on the journey but the worst is now behind you.

Final views of Loch Lomond

You bid farewell to the loch from an elevated position, offering a sense of space and distance. A small plane swept through as we were enjoying the view. Looking ahead you can see rolling mountains, giving a taste of what your next few days will involve. I was a little sad to leave the loch behind, it had provided a beautiful backdrop to the walk so far, but the scenery for the rest of the route soon cured me of this.

Into the mountains

The descent into Inverarnan felt like a bit of a slog after a long day of walking. It’s not the most scenic part of the route as your view is blocked by trees, and although you catch glimpses of where you’re going it’s a long time before you arrive.

Our home for the night was the Drovers’ Inn. Built in 1705, this inn is said to be haunted. We didn’t see any ghosts but you can’t help but see a lot of taxidermy. The reception area includes a stuffed Canadian bear (in a kilt, of course) and the collection spreads throughout the bar. The staff were all friendly and they really went above and beyond.

The following day would see us walk to Tyndrum on what would prove to be a beautiful, varied route. The day started with a series of waterfalls as you follow the River Falloch. Before long you are climbing to some stunning panoramic views of the mountains, a road just about visible but far enough away not to disturb the peace of the walk.

Waterfalls on day four

The path splits with an option to stop off in Crianlarich, which we didn’t take as we were well stocked up on supplies, but regretted not being able to get the stamp for our West Highland Way passport. There is an information board and bench at the fork which make for a convenient place for a lunch break, but if you can withhold the hunger for a little longer, at the top of the next hill there are picnic benches with arguably even more beautiful views.

Some very official looking way-marking

The path then winds its way through forestry track, with some sad views over expanses of land where the trees have all been chopped down. Descending to the valley floor you cross a river and pass through farmland. It was here we saw our only highland cow of the walk.

Farmland might not sound the most thrilling of landscapes but it felt idyllic as the clouds cleared and the sun shone brightly on fields ringed by mountains. Again, there were information boards telling you which mountains you could see as well as some information about the land and its uses. You’ll also see the remains of the fourteenth century St. Fillan’s Priory with connections to Robert the Bruce and an historic graveyard.

Idyllic views across the farmland

The path then takes what feels like a circuitous route up and through a heather-lined path before descending once more into the small village of Tyndrum. Home to the famous Green Welly Stop, it’s a good place to stock up as there’s minimal opportunities on the rest of the route.

The next day’s walk to Inveroran goes through open landscapes with views for miles. The path is wide enough to walk two abreast and is not too tough on the feet. You have clear views of Beinn Odhar, standing slightly apart from the other peaks, it appears as a cone. Once you’ve circled it the path remains open and you see glimpses of the railway line which would offer stunning views without the effort of the hike. Eventually you descend to the Bridge of Orchy, a small picturesque village where refreshments can be procured and facilities used at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel where sandwiches come super-sized as standard.

Beinn Odhar

Crossing the River Orchy you have the chance to look back and admire the stone bridge, mountains rising above the sprinkling of white houses. A forestry path ascends with beautiful views over the mountains and your first glimpses of Loch Tulla. Reaching the peak provided one of my favourite views of the walk as a stunning panorama of mountains opened up, the loch stretching into the distance, with what looks like a gingerbread house perched on its edge.

The Bridge of Orchy

It was a peaceful place, one pair of walkers visible on their descent but otherwise nobody in sight for as far as they eye could see. Having made good time there was no pressure to rush ahead and so we were able to sit awhile and enjoy the view, appreciating the joy that comes with spending every day in gorgeous landscapes under mercifully clear skies. A deep contentment settles and a desire for life to be made up of more moments like this.

Stunning views before the final descent of the day

As was so often the case you could see the end point some time before arriving. It was a relatively steep descent, again with loose gravel and larger rocks protruding. I was grateful for my walking poles which stopped me falling over more than once.

Inveroran Hotel itself was a lovely place to stay, the owners have obviously put a lot of thought into making it a pleasant rest stop, and the dinner was the best I had on the trail.

Blog Tour: This Motherless Land, Nikki May

This post is part of a blog tour. Thank you to Random Things Tours and Doubleday for providing me with a copy of the book in exchange for an honest review.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click through and buy I will receive a percentage commission at no extra cost to you.

Funke lives a happy life in Lagos with parents who clearly love each other and a little brother who she bickers with as siblings do, but who she ultimately has a healthy relationship with. She is intelligent and has a promising future ahead of her, but then tragedy strikes and she is sent to live in England with relatives she’s never met, and who disowned her mother for falling in love with a Nigerian man. 

Settling in to England is made easier by her cousin Liv, the only person who seems genuinely happy to have her there. She tries to protect Funke (or Kate, as her English family insist on calling her) from the worst of her mother’s bile and tries to help celebrate the good times. She helps Funke to begin thinking of England as home, and in some ways reminds her of her mother who always made the bad times feel better and went all out in celebrating the good times. 

Margot, Funke’s aunt, and Dominic, her cousin, are overtly racist and treat Funke as if she is a savage who doesn’t know how to speak or swim. Although Liv is kinder she has absorbed some of the prejudice she has grown up around and it spills out at times. Funke has experienced othering for much of her life, growing up with a white mum in Nigeria she was teased for being mixed race. Later, she will return to Nigeria and have to re-learn the norms and behaviours of the country after spending years assimilating to English culture. There’s a sense that she’s never quite fully of the culture wherever she is in the eyes of those around her.

The writing is lively and engaging and you feel you have a good sense of who the characters are within a few pages of being introduced. The interactions between Funke and her family in the opening sections feel so natural and relatable, you instantly feel in safe hands with May guiding you through the story. 

May’s writing really makes you feel for the characters. Funke’s heartbreak and sense of isolation are beautifully written and sensitively handled. Her aunt Margot makes your blood boil in her spitefulness and selfishness. She appears completely without morals and her sense of entitlement is in the extreme. The grandparents have their flaws but you can see a human side to them. They become close to Funke and regret what happened with her mother. Still, Funke is is not treated equally to her cousins. There is always a sense that they are doing her a kindness rather than treating her fully as a member of the family.

Connection to family and familial duty is a central theme in the novel. Funke has many times when she feels abandoned by those she loves yet she doesn’t lose her desire to hear from them, to share her successes with them even after years of cruel silence. She sometimes wishes she were able to forget about them. She searches for connection to her mother when she moves to England, thinking that she will find traces of her there. Instead, she is often left feeling the complete absence. It is heartening to see her find that connection in Lagos where so many were touched by her mother’s commitment to education and her generosity of spirit. 

The Stone family is certainly self-interested and will do what they can to protect the family name (and their inheritance). Margot pulls strings to help her children succeed, or at the very least, give the impression of success. Yet she shows very little love to Liv, constantly criticising her weight and personality. Even as an adult, when she has been through some real trauma, conversations between them are difficult, Margot picking an aspect of her life to pull apart every time they speak. She never sees or acknowledges the light in her daughter nor does she offer support when she really needs it. Despite this, Liv has a sense of duty to her family and has moments of having to choose between doing the right thing and doing what will protect the family reputation. We see time and again how such decisions reverberate across decades, generations. 

This is a brilliantly written, gripping book that is genuinely difficult to put down. A modern re-telling of Mansfield Park, you don’t need to have read the original to enjoy it (I haven’t and was completely hooked. It was interesting to think about how the scenarios might have played out in the nineteenth century.) There is so much depth to this book it would be a mammoth essay that discussed it all. One of the best books I’ve read this year.

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