Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Friday, 11 October 2024

Walking the West Highland Way, Part Three - Inveroran to Fort William

 A new day dawned, and after a beautiful, delicious breakfast, we were ready to leave Inveroran and head across Rannoch Moor, one of Europe’s largest remaining wildernesses. From descriptions I’d read and anecdotes I'd heard, it sounded like a bleak place where you could easily end up wading through bog. I didn’t find it desolate, and with a clearly defined path and dry weather didn’t stumble into any bogs by accident. There were even hillocks on which to stop for a snack. We were traversing it in relatively fine weather, I imagine it would be a different experience in the pelting rain. As with many sections of the Way there wasn’t much in the way of shelter. 

Leaving Rannoch Moor behind
On a clear day you can see quite some distance with mountains receding from view behind you, and new panoramas appearing ahead. The day starts with a steady incline before flattening out and gently descending before a further climb which gives your first views of Glen Coe and the iconic Buachaille Etive Mòr, menacingly standing guard. From above you can see the road that runs through the valley, and it was here that I realised how noisy motorbikes are, their roars reaching us from quite a distance across which sounds from the rest of the traffic did not pass.

Buachaille Etive Mòr and some of the local wildlife

It was our shortest day on the Way, arriving in time to lunch at the on-site pub at Kingshouse while we waited for our beds in the bunkhouse to be ready. The location of the hotel is undoubtedly stunning and you’re likely to encounter deer in the immediate surrounds. We were also treated to a colourful sunset which made Buachaille Etive Mòr appear as an erupting volcano.

Glorious sunshine to bid farewell to Glen Coe


The next day began with a disappointing breakfast but improved exponentially as the walk continued with some of the best panoramas of the trip. We were fortunate to have beautiful sunshine for this leg, one of my favourites. Leaving Kingshouse behind, you follow the valley floor to begin with. The road is visible (and audible at times) but I didn’t find it as oppressive as some guidebooks suggest. Regardless, the incredible views more than make up for having to share them with vehicles. You get a real sense of the scale of the mountains as you walk toward the base of the Devil’s Staircase, a busier section of the Way due to its popularity as a stand-alone walk.

On our way up the Devil's Staircase

There seems to be some disagreement of exactly when the name dates from but it seems to derive either from the numbers who lost their lives climbing it in inclement weather before the construction of the modern road, or in the dislike felt by many who had to carry building equipment up and down. Either way, it’s not as bad climbing it today, at least not in good weather during daylight hours. It is steep and you’ll likely need to stop to catch your breath, but the main difficulty was in the loose rocks slipping underfoot. Walking poles were helpful once again in staying upright. I’m not sure I’d fancy doing the route in reverse here.

Mountains as far as the eye can see

Reaching the summit you are rewarded with breathtaking views on all sides, and your first glimpse of Ben Nevis, reminding you how far you still have to go. Much of the remainder of the day’s walk stays at height, and seemed very popular with mountain bikers. I think we had one of the best lunch break spots this day, sitting on the side of the mountain, enjoying the views across the valley.

The descent in to Kinlochleven

The descent into Kinlochleven felt long and can be a bit hard on the knees, especially if they’re already feeling the strain, but it is a pleasant walk surrounded by trees. The village itself is very pretty with River Leven running through it.  We were lucky to be staying right next to the river with views of the mountains rising up behind it.

The view from the day's first ascent

The final day on the trail was a long one and we set off early, with slightly heavy hearts knowing it was almost over. After a short walk along the road you turn into a wooded area and follow a rocky path upward. Passing small waterfalls and streams, it’s a beautiful but brutal start to the day as you climb steeply out of the valley. There are glimpses of the view as you go but it is when you reach the top that it really opens up, and quite a view it is whether looking back over Kinlochleven or ahead along the length of the loch.

Miles of path ahead

Mercifully there’s no more intense ascents for a while and you enjoy an undulating route through the hills. It’s quite an open sections with streams frequently crossing the path. Sheep and ruined, abandoned farmhouses dot the route, giving a sense of the history of the place. The openness of the landscape means you can see the path snaking off into the distance more than most other sections of the Way.


The re-appearance of trees

After a couple of hours you reach a shift in the landscape, clumps of trees around but not crowding the view. Some splashes of colour appear in the form of purple and yellow flowers, and small bodies of water can be seen in the distance. It’s a very pleasant landscape to be walking through. At one point there is the option to leave the Way and take a shorter route along the road to Fort William. You would miss out on some stunning views by taking it.


The path continues with quite a few more inclines between you and the finish line. It was a sunny, relatively hot day when we did it and there had been very little shade to speak of. The trees offer occasional shelter but for the most part it’s quite an exposed section.

Approaching Ben Nevis from the south

Views of Ben Nevis and neighbouring mountains appear from the flower-lined path making for a pleasant backdrop, albeit one that makes you realise you’ve still got several hours of walking ahead of you. One final push uphill and you can see the town of Fort William in the distance. A wide gravel road takes you on a winding route down to the valley floor. 

Views toward the finish line

It having been a hot day, and one with no facilities en route, we’d been looking forward to reaching the Glen Nevis visitor centre in the hopes of finding a cold drink. Alas, thanks to a break by a stream on the descent we arrived shortly after 4pm and found it closed, the external toilet block locked. 


The remainder of the route follows the road into the town, and although we took detours to stay in the trees as much as possible there’s no denying it’s an anti-climactic end to an absolutely stunning walk. Arriving at the finish line having walked the length of the high street feels strange, surrounded by shoppers going about their day.

Final waymarkers

Despite the underwhelming final miles, the preceding 94 more than made up for it. It was an incredibly special experience spending my days walking side by side with my husband, sharing spectacular, ever-changing views. There were a few fellow walkers we’d seen regularly throughout who we were sad not to bump into on the final day, but hope they made it to the finish line. Before heading back to the daily grind we spent some time exploring Scotland’s cities, an adjustment to being surrounded by people and buildings once more. It felt strange no longer measuring our days in hours of walking, and worse still, when back at work, spending our days staring at screens away from each other. Talking to locals made it clear that life in the highlands is not easy, but the experience certainly opened our eyes to different ways of life, and showed us the benefits of living a slower life, more connected to nature. Now just to work out how to incorporate those lessons into daily life.

West Highland Way complete

Friday, 23 August 2024

Walking the West Highland Way, Part Two - Rowardennan to Inveroran

Having stayed two nights in Rowardennan for the pleasure of climbing Ben Lomond, walkers that had started on the same day as us had raced ahead and we wouldn’t see them again. On day three we were to meet those we’d encounter most days until we reached Fort William. The trail seemed busier than the first two days, suggesting that most start their walk on a Monday. I say it was busier, but we still felt we were on our own for the majority of the journey.

Day three, Rowardennan to Inverarnan, is widely considered to be the toughest day. I’d done as much research as I could to understand what challenges lay ahead. The main message was that there would be a lot of rocks to clamber over and tree roots to navigate. I had been concerned that all fourteen miles would be a slog but some last minute intel suggested the worst of it covered only about three miles, which gave me some hope.


An honesty box heading out of Rowardennan

The start of the day was fairly gentle. An honesty box not far out of Rowardennan offered the chance to stock up on snacks and blister plasters. The path was fairly wide and flat, the loch on one side, intermittent gentle waterfalls on the other. Knowing that the afternoon was set to be a challenge we opted for the high route, hoping to make the journey to Inversnaid as painless as possible. We didn’t regret it. Rather than descend to a narrow, rocky path, we were treated to a continuation of the wide smooth path we’d been enjoying for most of the morning. We were surrounded by pine trees and moss covered undergrowth, the occasional view across the loch visible. 

Views on the high route


When the two routes converged the path began to get narrower, an abundance of ferns lining the route. We dropped down to the level of the water with some small beaches to enjoy the full view across the loch. As we approached Inversnaid the path became rockier and there was one final steep ascent to take us to the bridge to cross the waterfall and down to Inversnaid Hotel, the only place on the route to buy food until Inverarnan. Walkers happy to add a bit more incline can go in search of the bunkhouse which I believe also serves food.


Reviews of the hotel did not always sing the praises of how welcome walkers are, but we found our reception perfectly friendly. They have a dedicated room to leave your rucksack and boots, and a room where you’re welcome to eat a packed lunch if you have one. The bar itself only serves food until one o’clock so it’s worth ensuring you arrive in good time. I would highly recommend the scones.

A rocky section of the walk


After a pleasant lunch overlooking the loch we set off to see what this infamous section of the Way had to offer. There’s no denying it is slow going, and I was grateful to have a walking partner to pull me up some of the trickier sections, but overall it wasn’t as bad as I was expecting. There are sections of relatively smooth path between the rockier sections but there is a lot of up and down and you have to watch where you’re putting your feet so much that there’s not much opportunity to look up and appreciate where you are. 

An overgrown section of the path


After a few hours we emerged from the trees on to a beach which felt like the end of the loch (it was not). It was a nice spot to sit and enjoy the views. The path from there is more open for a while, although overgrown in places. You’ll still experience more rocks on the journey but the worst is now behind you.

Final views of Loch Lomond


You bid farewell to the loch from an elevated position, offering a sense of space and distance. A small plane swept through as we were enjoying the view. Looking ahead you can see rolling mountains, giving a taste of what your next few days will involve. I was a little sad to leave the loch behind, it had provided a beautiful backdrop to the walk so far, but the scenery for the rest of the route soon cured me of this.

Into the mountains


The descent into Inverarnan felt like a bit of a slog after a long day of walking. It’s not the most scenic part of the route as your view is blocked by trees, and although you catch glimpses of where you’re going it’s a long time before you arrive.


Our home for the night was the Drovers’ Inn. Built in 1705, this inn is said to be haunted. We didn’t see any ghosts but you can’t help but see a lot of taxidermy. The reception area includes a stuffed Canadian bear (in a kilt, of course) and the collection spreads throughout the bar. The staff were all friendly and they really went above and beyond.


The following day would see us walk to Tyndrum on what would prove to be a beautiful, varied route. The day started with a series of waterfalls as you follow the River Falloch. Before long you are climbing to some stunning panoramic views of the mountains, a road just about visible but far enough away not to disturb the peace of the walk.

Waterfalls on day four


The path splits with an option to stop off in Crianlarich, which we didn’t take as we were well stocked up on supplies, but regretted not being able to get the stamp for our West Highland Way passport. There is an information board and bench at the fork which make for a convenient place for a lunch break, but if you can withhold the hunger for a little longer, at the top of the next hill there are picnic benches with arguably even more beautiful views.

Some very official looking way-marking


The path then winds its way through forestry track, with some sad views over expanses of land where the trees have all been chopped down. Descending to the valley floor you cross a river and pass through farmland. It was here we saw our only highland cow of the walk.


Farmland might not sound the most thrilling of landscapes but it felt idyllic as the clouds cleared and the sun shone brightly on fields ringed by mountains. Again, there were information boards telling you which mountains you could see as well as some information about the land and its uses. You’ll also see the remains of the fourteenth century St. Fillan’s Priory with connections to Robert the Bruce and an historic graveyard.

Idyllic views across the farmland


The path then takes what feels like a circuitous route up and through a heather-lined path before descending once more into the small village of Tyndrum. Home to the famous Green Welly Stop, it’s a good place to stock up as there’s minimal opportunities on the rest of the route.


The next day’s walk to Inveroran goes through open landscapes with views for miles. The path is wide enough to walk two abreast and is not too tough on the feet. You have clear views of Beinn Odhar, standing slightly apart from the other peaks, it appears as a cone. Once you’ve circled it the path remains open and you see glimpses of the railway line which would offer stunning views without the effort of the hike. Eventually you descend to the Bridge of Orchy, a small picturesque village where refreshments can be procured and facilities used at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel where sandwiches come super-sized as standard.

Beinn Odhar


Crossing the River Orchy you have the chance to look back and admire the stone bridge, mountains rising above the sprinkling of white houses. A forestry path ascends with beautiful views over the mountains and your first glimpses of Loch Tulla. Reaching the peak provided one of my favourite views of the walk as a stunning panorama of mountains opened up, the loch stretching into the distance, with what looks like a gingerbread house perched on its edge.

The Bridge of Orchy


It was a peaceful place, one pair of walkers visible on their descent but otherwise nobody in sight for as far as they eye could see. Having made good time there was no pressure to rush ahead and so we were able to sit awhile and enjoy the view, appreciating the joy that comes with spending every day in gorgeous landscapes under mercifully clear skies. A deep contentment settles and a desire for life to be made up of more moments like this.

Stunning views before the final descent of the day


As was so often the case you could see the end point some time before arriving. It was a relatively steep descent, again with loose gravel and larger rocks protruding. I was grateful for my walking poles which stopped me falling over more than once.


Inveroran Hotel itself was a lovely place to stay, the owners have obviously put a lot of thought into making it a pleasant rest stop, and the dinner was the best I had on the trail.

Sunday, 28 July 2024

Walking the West Highland Way, Part One - Milngavie to Rowardennan

The start of the West Highland Way, Milngavie

Sometime in the summer of 2023 my husband suggested that we walk the West Highland Way, Scotland’s first long distance trail, and one known for the variety of its stunning scenery. I eagerly agreed, not really considering how much it would take over our lives. We were not beginning from a point of peak physical fitness and so training was to be an important part of our preparations. Weekends were consumed with long walks, leaving us feeling that we were losing our one day of rest a week. I’d be lying if I said we always set off enthusiastically but I was (almost) always glad to have been. As the seasons changed and the levels of mud slowly decreased it was cheering to see the scenery change and the landscape gradually come alive once more. Various patches of ill health and injury meant we set off for Scotland feeling less well prepared to undertake a 96 mile walk than I would have hoped. We’d done as much as we could and would just have to hope it would be enough.
Day one views

After a difficult journey to the starting line with a cancelled train and no available seats for several hours we set out on a semi-sunny Sunday morning from Milngavie. I admit that I had expected the scenery on the first day to be fairly underwhelming but was pleasantly surprised. We may have been starting the day in a small town but we were soon among the trees and it wasn’t long before we were walking through vast landscapes with panoramic views. I was also struck by the sheer volume of wildflowers lining the route, adding colour and attracting a variety of insects.

Wildflowers on day one


The Beech Tree was a welcome stop for lunch, many other walkers gratefully taking off their packs and resting their sore feet. Not only were we able to get a hearty meal, we were greeted by Shetland ponies, fluffy quails were roaming the garden, and there was a play area for children. After a short rest and a little bit of rain we were on our way again to the first overnight stop, Drymen. We arrived in time to stretch and shower before dinner at Scotland’s oldest licensed pub, the first stop of many along the route which boast an impressive history.


Conic Hill and Loch Lomond
We awoke the next day achey but excited to see what day two had in store for us, little expecting quite how many inclines lay between us and our beds in Rowardennan. After some narrow, overgrown paths we were soon on wider woodland track with our first glimpses of Loch Lomond through the trees. Conic Hill, our first major incline, was visible in the distance long before we started the ascent. Walking ever closer you get excellent views of the loch in the distance and the distinctive shape which gives the hill its ‘dragon’s back’ nickname.


A tiring climb rewards you with gorgeous views across the loch and its islands. The descent was a long series of stone steps, recently repaired. Ascending via these from Balmaha would be fairly relentless but made an easier descent than the loose gravel and rocks would have done.

Balmaha


Balmaha is small but picturesque, nestled on the shore with a visitor centre, pub, and shop. The remainder of the day’s walk followed the edge of the loch, which you’d be forgiven for thinking would be fairly flat. Far from it, you do nonetheless have some time walking alongside a series of small, secluded beaches. One larger expanse was full of people enjoying the sunshine and paddling in the water. It was incredibly tempting to go in the water, glistening on what was a beautiful summer’s day, but with a long way still to go we kept moving. 


The path along the loch
The surrounds were lush green, the proliferation of ferns giving something of a pre-historic feel. On reaching Sallochy campsite we thought ourselves almost there but we hadn’t reckoned on the final steep climb of the day. We arrived exhausted around ten hours after setting off, just scraping in in time for dinner in a beer garden with glorious views on the loch and Ben Lomond. Despite being a tiring day I realised that all the quips about this not being a relaxing holiday, or indeed really a break at all were wrong. Yes, it was physically challenging but it was rejuvenating in a way that a city break wouldn’t be. Time in nature is so incredibly precious.

Beer garden views at The Clansman Bar, Rowardennan


We stayed two nights in Rowardennan to allow ourselves time to climb Ben Lomond. The forecast on the night we arrived didn’t look promising and so we were beginning to prepare ourselves for a day of rest. However, the next day dawned beautifully clear and the forecast had shifted the start of the rain until late afternoon so we risked it, thinking that we’d likely be most of the way down by the time the rain kicked in.


Our legs protested at the slightest incline but we persevered, one step at a time. About two thirds of the way up I became concerned by the strength of the wind, the gusts challenging my stability. With encouragement, we kept going, the wind barely letting up. As we approached the final scramble via a narrow path next to a steep drop, edging our way along, the wind buffeting against us, I felt incredibly unsafe and that we’d been foolish to not have turned back. The views across Loch Lomond are undeniably beautiful, but there was no time to enjoy the fruits of our efforts as the first drops of rain fell. 

Views across the loch from Ben Lomond

What followed was a difficult descent, the wind whipping around us and screeching in our ears was more unbearable for its persistence than the rain that was being directed at us, colliding with our skin like cold needle pricks. On our way up we’d passed people working on improving the path and I was surprised to discover they were continuing on. 


It was a slow descent, the wind trying to sweep my feet out from under me on each steep step down, and making me stumble even on the smoother sections. It felt interminable and I say with all sincerity that I thought we might die on that mountain, and that it would be our own fault for racing the weather and continuing on when it began to feel unsafe. The existence of this post signals the fact we made it down, mercifully unharmed, but I write this as a warning - please don’t underestimate even relatively short mountains, and listen to your instincts, if you feel unsafe, turn back. Our experience may have been less than ideal but in better weather I think it would have been a pleasant climb. The path is well maintained, fairly solid and stable, and varied enough that if you’re not too keen on one type of terrain you won’t have to put up with it for long. As you ascend more and more of the loch reveals itself, and the peak allows views of a sea of mountains. On a good day, it’s a walk I’d recommend.

Views from Ben Lomond


Wednesday, 7 December 2022

Barcelona, Robert Hughes

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Written on the cusp of Barcelona’s transformation for the 1992 Olympic Games, Robert Hughes takes us on a journey through the city’s tumultuous past and incredible creative output. We go back to the early days of the city and learn about how the Catalan language developed independently of Spanish and the reasons behind this. Hughes explains the poor way many in Catalunya were treated over the centuries, but does not shy away from pointing to the times when they also had the opportunity to be the oppressors and took it. This is a fascinating look at a city that continues to capture the imagination.

There’s a large focus on the architectural development of the city. Walking around it today, it feels like a city made for people, with children’s play areas dotted around the place, cycle lanes, and pedestrian crossings that prioritise those on foot over those in cars. Even at the time the book was written, it seems to have been a very different story, with overly congested roads and building regulations which allowed once well-thought out developments to become overcrowded, with outdoor space being sacrificed. Hughes walks us through the different ages of the city, each one wrapping around the previous. It was fascinating to learn about the political motivations for long straight roads as opposed to the maze of streets in the Gothic Quarter, and to learn about thoughtful city planning that makes a positive impact to this day, in ways that couldn’t have been imagined at the time of conception. 

Gaudí has an entire section dedicated to him, but Hughes is also set on making other great Catalan architects known, most notably Lluís Domènech i Montaner, architect of the beautiful Palace of Catalan Music, and Josep Puig i Cadafalch. Hughes is opinionated throughout and offers interpretation of many of Barcelona’s most famous buildings, closing with some scathing remarks on the continued work on the Sagrada Familia. His section on Gaudí reveals an eccentric genius who left an indelible mark on the fabric of Barcelona. 

He writes about the landscape surrounding the city and the ways in which this has had an impact over the years, including making the sewerage system a challenge, something the casual visitor will realise after a short while. He speaks also of the pride that its residents take in Catalan culture and language, and the barriers that those who do not understand the language have in accessing its remarkable history and cultural output. Hughes does us a great service in having written such a fascinating history of the city, a rarity in the English language. 

This is a brilliant book to read if you’re planning a visit to Barcelona, or indeed to read after returning home as it will add much depth to your understanding of the buildings and structure of the city, as well as understanding the tensions that bubble just under the surface. Reading this at a remove of several decades from when it was written is deeply interesting, as Hughes discusses the potential for change that many planned works promise for the city. At times he is unconvinced by some of the proposals and so it is interesting to consider how the experience of the city has changed, where the plans were well executed, and where things maybe didn’t achieve what they hoped. At over six-hundred pages this isn’t a quick read, but the writing is absorbing, the tales interesting, and the city complex and at times contradictory, so it doesn’t feel like a slog.  

Pick up a copy:
Bookshop
Waterstones

Sunday, 5 July 2020

Brilliant Bookish Places to Visit in England

Over the years, England has produced huge swathes of talented writers whose words have transported us to new worlds, given us a glimpse into the lives of others, and stayed with us through the ages. Here’s a list of some great places around the country where you can walk in the footsteps of your favourite author, enjoy the landscapes that inspired them, or imagine yourself in one of their books.

 

Haworth, Yorkshire

One of my favourite places and an absolute must for Brontë fans. Their home has been carefully transformed into a museum, the house itself returned to the state it was in while they lived there, with an exhibition space at the end where you can see their famous little books, childhood toys, and some of their other creative work. Directly opposite is the church and graveyard in which all but Anne are buried, giving you a sense of what it must have been like to grow up surrounded by death. Venture a little further and you’ll find yourself on the windswept moors that they loved so much. A bracing (well signposted) walk will take you to Brontë falls, and for the heartier walkers, a steep climb up to Top Withens, thought to be the inspiration for the location of Wuthering Heights. You can either retrace your steps across the moor or loop back through Stanbury, allow the best part of a day. The moors are beautiful and feel timeless. On a sunny day you might have to share with a lot of other Brontë fans but if you go out of season you’ll have them largely to yourself. Haworth Main Street is full of independent shops selling an eclectic mix of goods, but they don’t have set opening hours and if you’re there out of season might find that most of them are shut. The Black Bull pub was frequented by Branwell and you can still enjoy a meal there or a well earned pint at the end of a long walk. Haworth also has an additional gem for fans of the film of The Railway Children as the steam train that passes through was used in the film. On my first visit to Haworth I walked from Keighley station meaning I happily got to see some of the countryside en route. It’s a beautiful part of the country and there are so many places to walk in the surrounding areas.

Brontë Parsonage Museum

Oxford, Oxfordshire

Oxford is a city that has played host to some of our most well-loved authors – Philip Pullman, Lewis Carroll, and J. R. R. Tolkien to name but a few, and is rich in literary history. Exeter College is reported to be the inspiration behind Jordan College in Pullman’s His Dark Materials. A little outside the city you’ll find Godstow Abbey and The Trout pub, both of which feature in La Belle Sauvage. The pub itself is a great place to stop for a drink and delicious meal by the river. Speaking of pubs, The Eagle and Child was the meeting place for The Inklings in the 1930s and 40s. This informal group would meet to discuss literature and included J. R. R. Tolkien and C. S. Lewis. Any book lover visiting Oxford won’t be able to resist a tour of the Bodleian Library (which also featured in the Harry Potter films). Founded in 1602, it has a remarkable history and collection that includes a First Folio of Shakespeare and manuscripts of Tolkien’s works. All those books will doubtless leave you hankering for some new additions to your own shelves and Blackwell’s is just the place for you, the original of the chain. There’s also an excellent Oxfam bookshop.

 

Bath, Somerset

Jane Austen fans flock to Bath for its beautiful Georgian buildings and the glimpse they offer into the life of a much-loved author. It’s worth taking time to just wander around this historic spa town, but there are a few stops that no Austen fan would want to miss. The Jane Austen Centre delves into her life and what the city would have been like when she lived there (1801-6). The Fashion Museum is housed in the Old Assembly Rooms which feature in two of her novels, and in which Charles Dickens gave readings. The Fashion Museum itself is worth a visit in its own right, as well as offering the opportunity to try on some period costume yourself. Even if you’re not a big Jane Austen fan, Bath has a rich history, and some excellent bookshops, including Mr. B’s Emporium, which all bookworms will want to check out.

Hill Top

 The Lake District, Cumbria

This stunning area of England has inspired many a writer over the years, including Arthur Ransome, Beatrix Potter, and William Wordsworth. Lake Windermere and Coniston Water provided inspiration for Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons, and visitors can get out on the water in a kayak or boat to experience a slice of adventure for themselves. Beatrix Potter did a lot to preserve the natural beauty of the area and the breeding of Herdwick sheep. You can visit Hill Top, preserved as she left it with a gorgeous garden you can just imagine Peter Rabbit scampering around in. There’s also a great Gallery dedicated to her work in Hawkshead, and the National Trust has put together a guide for some less well-known places of interest. William Wordsworth wrote some of his most famous works in the Lake District and you can visit his home, Dove Cottage, where he hosted other literary giants such as Walter Scott and Samuel Taylor Coleridge.

 

Dorset

Thomas Hardy spent most of his life in Dorset, and the landscape appears in all of his major novels as Wessex. He is known for his heavily descriptive writing style and the central role the locations play in the plot. You can visit the home he designed, Max Gate, where he wrote Tess of the D’Urbervilles and Jude the Obscure. Dorset County Museum holds a large Hardy collection and have on display some of his manuscripts and a reconstruction of his study at Max Gate. Visit Dorset have put together a handy leaflet with places of interest for Hardy fans.


Ashdown Forest

 

Ashdown Forest, Sussex

Ashdown Forest, better known as the Hundred Acre Wood, makes the perfect day out for Winnie the Pooh fans of any age. A.A. Milne lived on the edge of the forest and took inspiration from it for creating the wonderful world that holds a special place in the heart of anyone who grew up with his tales. On the walk you can even play Pooh sticks on the original bridge. The forest is more rugged heathland than wood but it’s a beautiful place for a walk. In nearby Hartfield village is Pooh Corner, a shop dedicated to everyone’s favourite bear, which also has a café to refuel after a frolic through the forest. 

 

London

You can barely turn a corner in the capital without stumbling across a bookshop, a literary location, or a blue plaque relating to an author. From wandering the streets of Bloomsbury channeling your inner Virginia Woolf to heading to Baker Street to do some sleuthing, or rushing to King’s Cross to live out your childhood dreams of finding yourself at Platform 9 3/4 (and don’t forget to pop next door to the British Library for an incredible encounter with their collections). There’s the Charles Dickens Museum to visit, Shakespeare’s Globe to enjoy, and the bookshops of Charing Cross Road to browse. There’s enough literary history in London to write a whole book about. To get a sense of the huge array of independent bookshops check out the London Bookshop Crawl.