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Armed with a hammock, some walking memoirs on his phone, and a few bottles of water, Eveleigh sets out to walk 1225km across Spain on what proves to be one of the hottest summers on record. Prior to beginning he spent hours trawling Google Earth to map out the best route, although the reality doesn’t always follow expectation. Along the way he encounters an array of animals, some friendly, others less so, many blisters, and frequently less water than he would like. Certainly, he eats less well than he had fantasised about before setting off, seemingly having a knack of arriving at bars and restaurants just after the kitchen has closed.
He comments that stealth camping has become something of a trend, and yet he has obliviously been doing it for years. He prefers a hammock to a tent as it allows more awareness of what’s happening around you. Trying to go unnoticed does come with its drawbacks though, he admits that the last hour of each day’s walk is his least favourite as he searches for somewhere suitable to set up camp before the light completely fades. It also means long days - resting as darkness settles, and rising before the sun is fully up.
Despite spending some of the walk on a (less popular) section of the Camino de Santiago, he meets very few others on the path. Indeed, some sections are so rarely trod that he gets to know those ahead by the marks their boots leave in the dirt. It’s a solitary walk but Eveleigh describes those he meets, on the track or in bars, in a lively fashion, giving a sense of the generosity and welcome he receives. He is conscious of his appearance, especially when there hasn’t been opportunity to wash, but he also acknowledges that he is just playing at being a vagabond, that he has the security of his home waiting for him, and the bank card in his pocket.
Along the way he also reveals historical detail to the reader. The names and sometimes bizarre focuses of saints are a common theme, but so too do we learn about local tradition and custom, and political issues that continue to rage. In this way we get a broader view of the land he traverses. This is an interesting read that doesn’t shy away from the difficulties of a life on the road and the challenges many of the local communities face.
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