The French Riviera, famed for its pleasant climate, turquoise waters, and the rich and famous that have long been attracted to it. Miles takes us on a whirlwind tour through its history, the many visitors who have taken up residence there, the artists inspired by the landscape, the scandals, the seemingly endless car accidents, the corruption and glamour. Many have a glamorous image of the area thanks to the likes of the Cannes Film Festival and the luxury yachts that line its harbours, yet Miles reveals the darker side of its history and considers what its future will look like.
We begin with a look back at the history of the land before it was colonised by tourists, highlighting how inhospitable the landscape can be and how many times it changed hands. It soon becomes clear that since the early nineteenth century its development was very much dictated by foreigners, with the architecture including nods to that of the homelands of those with whom it was most popular at the time. Indeed, it was so heavily loaded with visitors that the local dialect used words more akin to Italian and Spanish than French at times.
Its mild climate led to many physicians recommending patients wintered there. For those with the money to spend extended periods there, or to return time and again, it really did seem to help, but for many it was a last resort. This led to an underlying tone of chronic illness and death, in stark contrast to the sumptuous landscape and the already luxurious accommodations. As time passed, patients continued to be prescribed time on the Riviera, but more visitors came to be inspired by the landscape, and to mix with the leading lights of the arts.
The roll call of artists and creatives who visited or made their home there is impressive. Artists such as Matisse, Picasso, Cezanne, and Renoir were all inspired by the quality of light and colours on the Riviera, while Monet struggled with the wildness of the landscape, used to his well tended, carefully planned garden at Giverny. A series of chapels were designed by artists, Miles claiming that the desire for the project came from a sense of not wanting to be outdone. New and unusual ballets were premiered in the area, and costumes were designed by the likes of Coco Chanel. It was a hotbed of creativity with those from different fields collaborating. Writers, too, were drawn to the area, perhaps most famously F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, whose time there is reflected in Tender is the Night.
A place of great inspiration, but also a place where people could lose everything with the development of casinos, which brought in new audiences. Behind the glitz and glamour we also see the corruption underlying public life. The mayor of Nice, Jacques Médecin has been accused of many dodgy dealings and was ultimately sentenced to a period in jail. The 1960s onwards marked a shift toward a darker side to the area, with the mafia operating locally, and to increased development and pollution from the sheer volume of visitors, no longer just the elite. Nice airport, today the second busiest in France, is perched on the shoreline, meaning planes fly low over popular beaches every few minutes, polluting the once alluring air.
Arranged chronologically as well as thematically, the book gives you a glimpse into the way the area has changed over the ages, and what particular developments were taking centre-stage when. It covers a lot so you never get too bogged down in detail, which for some may leave you wanting more, but which gives a thrilling overview of a quite extraordinary place. A thoroughly enjoyable read.
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