The Little Paris Bookshop, Nina George (trans. by Simon Pare)

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Jean Perdu owns a bookshop barge on the River Seine in Paris which he runs as a literary apothecary, prescribing books for customers, and on occasion refusing to sell ones he thinks are wrong for them. His eccentricities seem to extend to his home life, an apartment devoid of life and a locked room which houses the ghosts of his past. He may be perceptive when it comes to the needs of others, but struggles to heal his own heartbreak. A new neighbour, Catherine, is experiencing her own relationship breakdown, arriving without any furniture, and in need of comfort. She is nonetheless headstrong and encourages Perdu to engage, and ultimately to face the past he has been hiding from for the past twenty years. A couple of months earlier, Max Jordan, author of a viral book, moved in to the building, relieved that his fans haven’t found him, he spends his days trying to avoid being recognised as he battles with the struggle of what to write next. Soon he is embarking on a voyage to Provence in the book barge with Perdu, one seeking to find something that has long been lost, the other trying to find their future.

We catch glimpses of Perdu in his younger, more care-free days through the insertion of journal papers written by Manon, his former love. We see how he became the man he is and how his life could have been different. We never meet Manon in-person in the novel and so this is our main source of understanding of her as a person, outside of Perdu’s deep affection for her. Whatever our views on how their relationship played out, it would be hard not to feel the devastation of its ending, and the half life Perdu lived for so long as a result. His burgeoning relationship with Catherine is thoughtfully written, with both vulnerability and independence being shown. Intimacy with someone new is not something either of them have had to deal with for a long time and George writes the scenario realistically, with all the frustrations and misunderstandings of human interaction. There is also a maturity to their relationship, an understanding that they’ve lived full lives and therefore have unresolved feelings and baggage, and are able to give each other variously the space and support they need to work through them. 

This is a book about love, grief, and finding yourself. It’s also a love letter to books. Perdu understands the power of reading, and although his journey is deeply personal, he also hopes to discover the author of a book that touched his life profoundly, whose author writes under a pseudonym and whose true identity is unknown. For those looking for some literary healing too, the book closes with a list of books (an ‘emergency pharmacy’) for those in need, as well as some recipes for anyone whose tastebuds were tingling from the rich descriptions of food and drink throughout.

This is a lovely read, with a host of eccentric yet well-rounded characters. It deals with serious and sad topics but manages to retain an overall sense of lightness. It had sat on my bookshelf waiting to be read for quite some time and I finally picked it up in need of something light hearted and cheerful. It wasn’t exactly that, but it was beautiful, whimsical yet philosophical. I loved it. 

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Once Upon A Time World: The Dark and Sparkling Story of the French Riviera, Jonathan Miles

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The French Riviera, famed for its pleasant climate, turquoise waters, and the rich and famous that have long been attracted to it. Miles takes us on a whirlwind tour through its history, the many visitors who have taken up residence there, the artists inspired by the landscape, the scandals, the seemingly endless car accidents, the corruption and glamour. Many have a glamorous image of the area thanks to the likes of the Cannes Film Festival and the luxury yachts that line its harbours, yet Miles reveals the darker side of its history and considers what its future will look like. 

We begin with a look back at the history of the land before it was colonised by tourists, highlighting how inhospitable the landscape can be and how many times it changed hands. It soon becomes clear that since the early nineteenth century its development was very much dictated by foreigners, with the architecture including nods to that of the homelands of those with whom it was most popular at the time. Indeed, it was so heavily loaded with visitors that the local dialect used words more akin to Italian and Spanish than French at times. 

Its mild climate led to many physicians recommending patients wintered there. For those with the money to spend extended periods there, or to return time and again, it really did seem to help, but for many it was a last resort. This led to an underlying tone of chronic illness and death, in stark contrast to the sumptuous landscape and the already luxurious accommodations. As time passed, patients continued to be prescribed time on the Riviera, but more visitors came to be inspired by the landscape, and to mix with the leading lights of the arts.

The roll call of artists and creatives who visited or made their home there is impressive. Artists such as Matisse, Picasso, Cezanne, and Renoir were all inspired by the quality of light and colours on the Riviera, while Monet struggled with the wildness of the landscape, used to his well tended, carefully planned garden at Giverny. A series of chapels were designed by artists, Miles claiming that the desire for the project came from a sense of not wanting to be outdone. New and unusual ballets were premiered in the area, and costumes were designed by the likes of Coco Chanel. It was a hotbed of creativity with those from different fields collaborating. Writers, too, were drawn to the area, perhaps most famously F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, whose time there is reflected in Tender is the Night. 

A place of great inspiration, but also a place where people could lose everything with the development of casinos, which brought in new audiences. Behind the glitz and glamour we also see the corruption underlying public life. The mayor of Nice, Jacques Médecin has been accused of many dodgy dealings and was ultimately sentenced to a period in jail. The 1960s onwards marked a shift toward a darker side to the area, with the mafia operating locally, and to increased development and pollution from the sheer volume of visitors, no longer just the elite. Nice airport, today the second busiest in France, is perched on the shoreline, meaning planes fly low over popular beaches every few minutes, polluting the once alluring air. 

Arranged chronologically as well as thematically, the book gives you a glimpse into the way the area has changed over the ages, and what particular developments were taking centre-stage when. It covers a lot so you never get too bogged down in detail, which for some may leave you wanting more, but which gives a thrilling overview of a quite extraordinary place. A thoroughly enjoyable read. 

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Born of No Woman, Franck Bouysse, translated by Lara Vergnaud

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This post is part of the blog tour for the book. Thank you to Weidenfeld & Nicolson and Random Things Tours for providing me with a copy of the book in exchange for an honest review.

Trigger warning: This novel contains scenes of sexual and emotional abuse, and includes descriptions of violent deaths.

Bouysse’s searing novel brings nineteenth century France to life in chilling detail. The narrative voice shifts throughout, but it is Gabriel, the village priest, who bookends the novel. It opens with a mysterious confession requesting he remove a series of diaries from the body of a woman at the asylum, the contents of the which will haunt him for the rest of his days. It soon becomes clear why, as a bitter tale of abuse, intrigue, and deception unfolds.

Fourteen year old Rose is sold to a blacksmith by her father, desperately trying to save the family farm. The castle in which the blacksmith lives with his mother is cold and unwelcoming, reflecting the souls of its inhabitants. Rose quickly realises that no matter how well she performs her tasks the old woman will always find something to complain about. She accepts her new position with quiet resolve, but the true evil of her owners will soon reveal itself, making her life unbearable. There is some slight relief in the presence of Edmond, a kindly employee who warns her off staying, but without giving full reason why. Her affection for him is soon tainted with the disappointment that he didn’t do more to protect her.

There is one more inhabitant - the wife of the blacksmith, confined to her bedroom due to ill health, and never seen outside it. The doctor visits regularly, and Rose becomes curious about what’s wrong with her. The wife locked away is not an uncommon presence in either nineteenth century novels or modern books set during the period. The visits by the doctor will make those familiar with such novels as The Crimson Petal and the White distinctly uncomfortable, but the truth, when it is revealed, is far darker than anything I had imagined. 

The various threads of the story are constructed to devastating effect. At times we see the same events through different eyes with heartbreaking results. Rose, having been sold without her knowledge or consent, can only imagine the thought process of her family, completely blind to the consequences caused by the foolish actions of a desperate man. At many moments you wish the truth could be communicated between the unhappy inhabitants, but the despicable villains ensure this is never possible.

The blacksmith and his mother are truly abhorrent, their cruelty seemingly knowing no bounds. Often incredibly difficult to read, the sections revealing their unforgivable actions will have you boiling with anger. They are carefully realised villains that inspire no sympathy. They manipulate and abuse, and the image of Rose trapped with them in a forbidding castle where no-one will hear her screams is truly bone chilling.

The writing is confident and lyrical, creating a vivid, believable world that will take hold of your heart and not let go. The clever little details littered throughout drop hints of the full picture, which will only become clear after a series of twists and revelations that subvert many assumptions made from the off. Bouysse successfully draws you in to a dark and dangerous world with characters that will inspire strong emotions. At many times a difficult read, it is nonetheless almost impossible to put down.

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Detour de France, Michael Simkins

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Simkins takes himself on a three month jaunt around France to broaden his horizons and learn more about the reality of French life. What ensues is a series of amusing encounters that don’t always go to plan but demonstrate his commitment to trying new things and breaking old habits. This can be as simple as taking a dip in the sea, playing a game of petanque, or letting go of his inhibitions and spending a day in a naturist resort. He visits a few popular tourist sprts such as Arles but rarely for the reasons many visit, always searching for a taste of the real France. Despite his hesitation on embracing some of the experiences, he comes to appreciate the time taken over a good meal, the climate, and the importance of doing things properly.

At one point he plays cricket with a group of British immigrants, who despite their moaning about both their home country and their new, all admit to being pleased with their choice despite the sacrifices involved. By the end he is himself quite enamoured by the country but can see its flaws, especially in its infamous bureaucracy and ardent nationalism.

This is an easy to read account of a sometimes ill-fated exploration of a great country with its mystifying rituals and effortless chic. He is able to laugh at both himself and the situations he finds himself in. The humour is occasionally cringey but often genuine and self-deprecating, and you get an insight into what France has to offer the curious tourist determined to step outside his comfort zone.

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Doing Without Delia: Tales of Triumph and Disaster in a French Kitchen / Sacré Cordon Bleu, Michael Booth

When Michael Booth decides it’s time he learns to cook without the guidance of his favourite celebrity chefs he doesn’t take the decision lightly. Starting with a bonfire of the cookbooks he has accumulated over the years he moves his family to Paris and enrolls in Le Cordon Bleu in what he describes as ‘as noble a way of jeopardizing the security and well-being of my family as I could think of.’ Despite commenting on how not child-friendly Paris is the family seem to settle in and other than piling on a few pounds from all the rich food he brings home they don’t seem to suffer too much for the upheaval.

Despite the prestige and eye-wateringly expensive tuition fees Le Cordon Bleu is somewhat run down and offers fairly rudimentary equipment. Their tutors however, eccentric as they are, have such depth of knowledge that the experience proves to be absolutely worth it. Despite a disastrous first practical in which he slices his hand open, Booth flourishes. He doesn’t agree with all that is taught – the use of pre-grated cheese constantly niggles at him and turning vegetables never seems necessary. However, he does learn to cook without the need for recipes and in reading this book you’ll pick up tricks and tips that you likely didn’t know before.

There are recipes littered throughout, none of which I have yet tried – French cooking is not known for being vegetarian friendly, but I am intrigued by the idea of a chocolate risotto. There are some gruesome descriptions of having to decapitate live crabs and lobsters, for which he feels bad, but the taste of the final dish seems to negate any guilt he may have felt.

This is a humorous account of the author’s journey through French cooking, the camaraderie and competition with his fellow students, and at its heart a love of good food. A treat of a read for foodies and Francophiles alike.

Paris Part Three – Palais Garnier, Fontainebleau, and the Musée d’Orsay

Paris Part Two – Parc Zoologique, Jardin des Plantes, and Notre-Dame

Parc Zoologique

In the outskirts of Paris is the Parc Zoologique. Situated next to the Bois de Vincennes, a green space covering 995 hectares which is worth making a trip to explore even without the zoo. First opened in 1934, the zoo underwent a major refurbishment in 2011 to bring its environments up to the standards demanded by modern regulations. The result is a beautifully landscaped zoo with enclosures that feel quite natural. A large artificial rock dominates the skyline and teases with glimpses of stairs inside, not open to the public. They house animals large and small and have an impressive greenhouse to simulate a tropical rainforest environment.

The next day started with a trip to Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, an impressive department store opened early in the twentieth century. If you enjoy shopping you can happily spend hours browsing their upmarket wares, but even if not, it’s worth visiting for the beautiful architecture and stunning views over Paris from the roof.

Views over Paris from the roof of Galeries Lafayette

After this we visited the Jardin des Plantes and found ourselves once again heading for a zoo. The menagerie is the second oldest in the world and parts of it do feel slightly run down. The enclosures are significantly smaller than those at the Parc Zoologique with a couple of animals showing signs of distress. Despite this they do house some big cats and the design of the enclosures allow for excellent views. Crowds were delighted to see baby leopards playing together.

The menagerie is located near the Seine and we took a pleasant stroll along its banks during the golden hour, many couples and friends enjoying the stunning surroundings with a bottle of wine. We arrived at Notre-Dame just before closing and with no queues. A service was in progress so we were unable to walk the full length of the building but we saw enough to be able to appreciate the majesty of the building. The crowds of tourists do make it hard to fully appreciate the intended peacefulness but that is to be expected of a trip to such an iconic building. Last time we visited we went up the towers and I would highly recommend this.

An evening stroll by the Seine

To round off the day we visited Shakespeare and Company, possibly the most famous English language bookshop in the city. The original, opened in 1919 by Sylvia Beach was frequented by the likes of Hemingway and Joyce. The current incarnation was opened in 1951 by George Whitman and continues the traditions of its namesake, welcoming authors and artists, and sometimes even housing them in exchange for work in the shop. Visiting today is a bibliophile’s dream with its many reading nooks, resident cat, and rows upon rows of books.

Paris Part One – Montmartre, Atelier des Lumières, and Pere Lachaise Cemetery

Clos Montmartre

Every October Montmartre hosts a festival celebrating the harvest of grapes from its one remaining vineyard. We were lucky that our visit coincided with this annual event as we were able to join a guided tour of the Clos Montmartre, closed to the public at other times of the year. There was a more formal celebration occurring at the same time with robed figures, members of the wine brotherhood of Montmartre as far as I could work out. The vineyard is small and not as historic as some may have you believe. Although vineyards were first introduced to Paris by the Romans and continued to thrive for many generations since, by the end of the nineteenth century they had vanished from the city. The Clos Montmartre was planted in 1933 to rekindle some of the area’s heritage.

After the tour we made our way uphill to the main festival site in front of the Sacré-Coeur. Here we found a bustling street food market selling a wide range of French specialities. The wine yield from the vineyard is auctioned off with proceeds going to charity. Local artists design the labels. Historically an area that attracted artists – Monet, Renoir, and Degas to name but a few, creativity is still evident as you walk the streets, and this custom pays homage to this. Montmartre retains its village feel and remains one of the most beautiful areas of Paris.

L'Atelier des Lumieres

We couldn’t linger too long however as we had tickets for the Atelier des Lumières. A nineteenth century foundry in the 11^th arondissement houses an immersive art exhibition. Their first display predominantly features work by Gustave Klimt, as well as some photography from the period and works by Hundertwasser, whose work was new to me. A playlist accompanies the experience as images are projected across the walls, floors and ceiling. Accused by some of pandering to the Instagram generation, it is nonetheless a unique experience. By no means a replacement for seeing the originals, instead it feels not like experiencing them so much as witnessing new art in this carefully curated space, and is well worth a visit.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery

Conveniently nearby sits sprawling Pere Lachaise cemetery. Established in 1804 by Napoleon I, it is the final resting place of many a famous name and is the most visited cemetery in the world. Rows of ornate tombs line paths that spread as far as the eye can see. It feels almost to be a city in its own right. Home to tributes to wars and mass killings, it is hard to imagine that this peaceful, emotive place was once the site of a massacre itself.

Auvers-sur-Oise

Less than twenty miles from the centre of Paris sits Auvers-sur-Oise, a picturesque town that has attracted artists for many years. Perhaps most famous for the death of Vincent Van Gogh, it also played host to Paul Cézanne, Charles-François Daubigny and Camille Pissaro. The tourist office supplies a map detailing two walking routes that take in places of note and those that appear in the artwork of its famous inhabitants. Taking advantage of the one direct train there and back which runs from the Gare du Nord at weekends you’ll get a whole day there but struggle to visit everything.

Inside the Church

Armed with our map we first stopped at the Église Notre-Dame de l’Assomption d’Auvers-sur-Oise, immortalized in Van Gogh’s The Church of Auvers. A church has stood on the site since the twelfth century and what remains is an example of early Gothic design. After a brief tour of the interior it was on to the fields beyond, familiar also from Van Gogh’s works. His grave sits in the crematorium here, his brother Theo now rests beside him, having been moved in 1914.

The chateau

A walk across the fields and along quiet streets lead to the Maison-Atelier de Daubigny, a tempting stop that on this occasion we had to pass up. Continuing through historic streets you come to the Chateau d’Auvers, dating from the seventeenth century, a peaceful spot to enjoy the gardens and views over the town. The main building is not open to the public but there is a restaurant on site and a paid exhibition of Impressionist work. Being on a budget we had to pass up on this too (there are so many places to visit it’s best to decide before you arrive where you’re going to prioritise).

Exterior of Auberge Ravoux

For us the main draw was Van Gogh and so we made our way to L’Auberge Ravoux where he lodged for the last seventy days of his life. The staircase leading to the top floor is now poorly lit and in slight disrepair, the walls no longer the shade he would have known. His room is small and plain but all he needed as he spent the majority of his time outside painting from life. We were lucky as the only two English speakers on the tour we were able to spend more time in the room as the presentation was kindly repeated, free from the crowds. I’m told at weekend there are often long queues but we seem to have chanced upon a quieter day. The adjacent room has been dressed to give an idea of how it would have looked, Van Gogh’s having been left unchanged but for the removal of furniture.

After giving ourselves time to reflect after seeing where one of the world’s favourite artists lived during his most prolific period we turned our steps to the Absinthe museum. A small, unassuming building hosts an array of objects using in the preparation of the drink, information of what goes into it, and many examples of the way it permeated popular culture. The contrast is stark between posters hailing the spirit as the height of culture, laughing figures having the time of their life, and the later images of emaciated bodies, families plunged into poverty after suffering abuse at the hands of those inebriated by the potent substance.

The garden at Doctor Gachet's house

Unfortunately, there was not time to complete the longer walk detailed on the map of the town but there was just enough to visit the house of Doctor Gachet, to which entry is free. A tall house overlooking a lovely garden and many rooftops besides, it is a beautiful spot. Gachet welcomed many artists into his home where he offered treatment as well as friendship. A keen painter himself, he amassed a significant art collection which was later donated to French museums by his offspring. Visiting his home gives a great sense of the appeal to artists, but also the chance to learn about the fascinating man himself.

Before catching our train back to Paris there was just time to walk down to the river Oise and enjoy the glow of golden hour. Auvers-sur-Oise is a peaceful and beautiful town that takes no great leap of imagination to understand why it is so popular with artists. Today there are many working studios to enjoy as well as soaking in the history of the place. Even the postboxes and station subway are enhanced with illustration. A perfect day trip that could easily be extended into several days.

Seven Ages of Paris: Portrait of a City, Alistair Horne

Great affection for the City of Light runs through this biography by one of Britain’s foremost historians on the topic. He delights in the culture and glamour of the city while not failing to make quite clear what a turbulent history it has survived, a fact Horne seems to consider makes it that much more exciting than our own capital. He admits in the preface that the seven ages have been chosen capriciously and yet they offer a vast history from the Middle Ages to the mid-twentieth century. A whirlwind tour it may be but with enough attention lavished on each epoch that you don’t feel lost. Its ambitious span allows for themes and recurrences to be easily identified.

It is, predominantly, a history of the upper class and those in power, the average Parisian only getting a look in as part of a statistic. Horne has no qualms in expressing his distaste or favour for those he writes about. His focus is also on the way each ruler impacted the very fabric of Paris. Mass building under the likes of Napoleon, an often-absent leader who nonetheless ruled with great attention. Some ages saw great expansion with little to no care for existing buildings. Interesting also to see the buildings we are so familiar with – the Louvre and Versailles for example, change roles so drastically. What is now home to the world’s largest art gallery was once home to French royalty and the fate of Versailles from pleasure palace to dreadfully boring under the Sun King as the young and fashionable moved back to the city centre. It is interesting to see the centre of power move through the ages and the emphasis on different disciplines such as education or religion as evidenced by the buildings erected.

The lingering impression of Paris remains one of high culture and beauty but of a city that has earned its battle scars. Invasions and revolutions are no stranger to the French capital and Parisians through the ages have suffered terrible hardships because of them. This easy to read history will leave you with a greater appreciation of the flourishing city born of so much turmoil.