Showing posts with label Belgium. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Belgium. Show all posts

Friday, 19 June 2026

Antwerp: The Glory Years, Michael Pye

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Pye takes us on a tour of sixteenth century Antwerp, its glory years. In this fascinating book you will learn much about the importance of the city for trade and the spread of intellectual ideas, and the way everything became an industry with funeral monuments being sent out as kits to be assembled and painters creating advanced forms of paint by numbers for others in their workshops to work up. He talks also of how difficult it is to piece together Antwerp’s history with huge gaps in the records available in the city itself. Instead, researchers are forced to visit cities in other countries to find snippets of information in order to cobble together a picture of this remarkable city. You are left with the sense of its success having been transitory, riotous, and important far beyond its walls.


Antwerp was a hub of trade but also of intellectual exchange, with their printing presses putting out books for countries across Europe. Indeed, they printed the controversial edition of the Bible in English, but Pye assures us this doesn’t mean the printers were taking sides. The same books could very well have been burned the following week. There were also newsletters printed and made readily available at booksellers which encouraged the exchange of ideas in the city in a very accessible form. Antwerp was a city that was looked to as a source of knowledge. It had impressive botanic gardens when they were quite rare elsewhere and knowledge was sought from them, even from enquirers from countries where the plant in question was native.


It was a market for luxury but also mass production. There was a notable shift away from the commissioning of artists directly to going through a dealer, buying paintings that the artist was going to paint anyway. Some worked hard at ensuring their style matched the national style of the purchaser. As things progressed a process more akin to a production line emerged. Drawings for paintings would be reused and instructions given so that assistants could paint them, with the artist checking the final piece with the customer and making any final adjustments. By 1515 there were more than 100 workshops in full production in the city.


As with many growing cities, day to day life wasn’t always pleasant. Crime was rife and the growing population encouraged the spread of disease. Locals didn’t fully take advantage of the boom, investing in property with the expectation that it would remain desirable. Once traders moved on to Amsterdam they were left with investments that were worth very little. Water quality was poor which meant the beer was not good, but the Emperor was determined that local beer should still be the main ones consumed, bringing in punishments for anyone found to be drinking foreign beer within a three and a half mile radius of the city walls. 


As someone who knew very little of the city’s history before reading this book, I found it fascinating. When visiting Antwerp I spent a happy few hours in the Plantin-Moretus Museum, and so I was interested to see what an important role Plantin played in Antwerp’s status. As with any history of a European city, other countries on the continent play a role and so we see famous figures from abroad, such as William Tyndale, make an appearance. Having recently read Wolf Hall I noted the frequency with which Antwerp is mentioned, and it was good to fill in the gaps about why it was such a notable city. A great read if you’re planning a trip to Antwerp or have an interest in the history of arts, culture, and trade.


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Sunday, 3 May 2026

Bruges-La-Morte, Georges Rodenbach

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Hugues Viane lost his wife five years ago and moved to Bruges, a city he considered decaying and melancholy, in order to fully indulge his grief, seeing his deceased wife reflected around the city. He lives alone with only the company of his servant Barbe. One evening, having been to Church to reflect on his loss, he encounters a woman who he believes resembles his wife almost exactly. What follows is an unsettling affair in which he tries to turn her into the woman he loved while increasingly realising that it is an illusion. He never speaks to Jane, his new beau, about his former love and she is unaware that his obsession with her is based on her resemblance. Putting her up in a home separate from his, keeping their relationship a secret, this is not a healthy situation. When they fall out he has to consider whether he has fallen for Jane for herself or if it is merely the illusion of his former wife that sustains them. Her eventual demand to come to his home leads to the climax of the book. 


Jane as a character is not particularly developed. We see her through Hugues’ eyes, and it is only approaching the climax of the novel that we begin to see more of her mindset. Tired of his strange behaviour she has begun to consider whether it is worth continuing the relationship merely to benefit financially - he is older than her and she suspects it would not be too long before she could inherit. For the most part you feel quite sorry for her but her behaviour in his home becomes quite uncomfortable, although we are left once more feeling that she is a victim of Hugues’ obsession.


Hugues begins by being quite a sympathetic character. Yes, he seem to indulge in his grief, but his emotions are painful and you feel for him. However, his behaviour toward Jane is frequently unacceptable and unhealthy. The power balance between them is uneven, although she does possess power in the chance resemblance to his wife - he would not want to lose her. This is not a love story however, it is one of dangerous obsession and the fetishisation of the dead. A sense of melancholy hangs over the whole book and Rodenbach works hard to bring the city itself into the mood of the book. In the original he published photographs alongside the text, and this has been replicated with more recent photographs in the current edition. These depict empty streets and canals, offering a somewhat haunting sensation very different to the experience of a modern visitor to the city. Locals are said to have been unhappy with the novel when it was originally published, depicting their city as a place of death and decay when they were attempting to revive it as a place of industry. 


An interesting book that modern readers may find somewhat overwritten. The introductory essay by Alan Hollinghurst and essay ‘The Death Throes of Towns’ give us an insight in Rodenbach’s fascination with Bruges and his perspective on it as a city of faded glory. A strange, disturbing novel which evokes a very particular time and mindset. 


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Saturday, 4 April 2026

The Brontës In Brussels, Helen MacEwan

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Many Brontë fans will know of Charlotte’s unrequited love for her teacher in Brussels, M. Heger, and the impact it had on her writing. MacEwan’s book delves deeper into her and Emily’s time in Belgium and the remnants of the city they knew that are still visible today. Throughout, both the modern city and the nineteenth century one are brought to life. Accompanied by modern photographs and historic illustrations, whether or not you have been to the Belgian capital, you feel transported through the pages of this book. 


In 1842 the two sisters embarked on a trip to Brussels hoping to improve their French and German and learn skills that would help them run their own school. We see them struggle to assimilate and finding socialising difficult even with generous and willing hosts. They are judgmental of many of the people they meet and largely keep to themselves. Emily is unhappy and does not return after a visit back to Haworth. Charlotte does return, ignoring a feeling that it is a bad idea. She finds it hard to be separated from Heger but he becomes increasingly distant and she falls into a depression. As difficult as the sisters come across at times you can’t help but feel for Charlotte in her first taste of romantic love and the agony of not hearing from someone who means so much to you. The focus of the book is really Charlotte, whose experience in Brussels had a much greater impact on her life than Emily. 


Emily and Charlotte spent only a fairly short amount of time abroad and there is not much left of the city they knew, which can make it feel as though there’s not much to say in this book. It is padded out with summaries of Villette and The Professor. There are extracts included throughout which relate to the particular time or place MacEwan is discussing at the time. Perhaps more interesting to readers are translations of some of their devoirs, less readily available. We learn also of how the record of their time in Belgium has spread. Heger is said to have handed out some of their work to pilgrims to the pensionnat wanting a glimpse of Lucy Snowe’s school.


This is an interesting book, with a detailed walking guide if you want to go and explore the city yourself. I read it just before a visit and it really gave me a sense of the place. I didn’t go on a Brontë pilgrimage, but did stop off at the cathedral, which felt more meaningful having read the book. I’ve read all the published Brontë novels but not for a while so the excerpts and details of how each book is thought to have been inspired by their experiences and particular places were useful. The story doesn’t stop when Charlotte leaves, taking us through to her premature death. A nice addition to the bookshelves of Brontë fans who want to deep dive on this particular period in their history, or who want to explore the city through the lens of their experiences. 


Pick up a copy:

Waterstones